Re: Re: Trim materials

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#3090
jkhackney
Participant

    Hi Mick,

    I’m not quite finished with this, yet, as I lack a source for the U-profile edging, of which I’m missing about 3 or 4 pieces. I will also have to modify some panels in the back for the shoulder seat belts.

    For the panels I used the same material Martin Walter used. It’s fine sawdust glued and pressed together into boards. We call it “masonite” in American and it’s called “pavatex” in Switzerland. One side is smooth and the back has a fine diamond-pattern and is rough. It’s very cheap.

    I wasn’t able to get it in the thickness originally used by MArtin Walter and I used a slightly thicker board. However I learned that thinner is better! Something like 2mm would be good. It DOES matter because now the Silent Gliss track in front doesn’t quite fit, and I can’t get the frontmost panel in over the windscreen. The original U-edging is also too narrow for the boards I used. It bothers me so much that I will re-make the ill-fitting pieces in thinner pavatex. BTW I cut the pieces with a hobby knife.

    To make the bends I soaked the pieces in water in the bathtub overnight. Here is a photo of the side roof panels. The bend is a guess. Just try to get an even arc of 80-90 degrees (almost a quarter circle). The pieces are held in shape with string until they dry. Getting the shape perfect isn’t so important, as the screws hold them tight. You can still adjust the shape when it’s dry.

    To make the bends in the panel over the front seats, I did each side in turn. Let the panel edge stand in the bath overnight so the last 10″ or so of it are very wet. It will only be slightly soft. Then bend it to shape by hand, rolling carefully so as not to make a crease. Finally, lay the piece on the floor and place a heavy object such as a bookcase on the wet edge, trapping just the last 1/2″ or so onto the floor. In fact I think I trapped the edge beneath a garden fence at the edge of the concrete pad in our garden. Then, gently raise the rest of the panel up to be vertical, such that the panel bends along the curve you previously hand-bent. Place another bookcase, Land Rover, picnic table, or heavy furnishing behind the panel to hold it in that position overnight, or until dry: the edge clamped onto the floor and the rest of the panel at 90 degrees to the floor, held up by something heavy. Make fine adjustments to the curve as it’s drying. Repeat on the opposite side of course.

    For a nice, waterproof, durable white covering with a slight grain to it, I used vinyl bathroom wallpaper. This was expensive but you don’t need a lot of it. I also bought the corresponding waterproof wallpaper glue. Wallpaper after the pieces are cut and dried.

    -Jeremy